First off we want you to now we made it to the San Blas islands without incident. After leaving Cartagena on Friday morning we traveled roughly 20 miles to the Islands of the Rosario’s where we anchored overnight, for a departure the next afternoon to go direct to the San Blas. We needed to time our departure so as to insure we would arrive at our destination during daylight hours as there are many reefs to dodge. We had originally planned on leaving with another cruiser that had been down here before but they wanted to push the arrival too late so we opted to sail alone which actually was very nice. We departed and saw lots of stars and dolphins which in sailor lingo means good luck.
The trip was plotted to be around 175 and we actually did 187 from anchor up to anchor down, taking about 43 hours to complete. It started out looking like we would have to motor most of the way (due to a low pressure that reached further south than normal) but we got a favorable wind shift and we were able to sail 27 of the 42 hours. We sailed/motor sailed even if there was minimal wind as we expected we would have to slow down (reduce sail) so we wouldn’t arrive too early — which is what happened. Check out our blog links for our destination. If you have time also look up San Blas as it has beautiful water/beaches (some say like the South Pacific islands), Kuna Indians, snorkeling. We chose this place because it’s popular with the cruisers and we were told there would be Christmas and New Years festivities which sounded good to us.
This is our 4th Christmas away (Miami, Bequia, Bonaire & San Blas — all very different countries) from our families and friends which we miss dearly, especially this time of the year. Our wish to you all is peace, prosperity and happiness for the holidays and the up-coming New Year. We truly feel blessed that we are able to experience the many different cultures and people while on this "Sojourn" of ours.
We are in a remote area of Panama where there is limited access to cellular and NO internet so for the time being our trusty SSB/Ham radio and SLOW modem will be our connection to those of you back in the USA and elsewhere. It’s a good thing we are old as we can tolerate and recall the SLOW modem speeds! Our trade off is we get to sit anchored in a beautiful tropical setting while all the while we have this wonderfully (slow) access to you. It’s funny in that when we worked we used to tread having to look at email any longer than necessary but now our life is much simpler and sort of like our parents where they love to get snail mail. It is odd that you can occasionally get cell coverage as the nearby main villages (still islands) that are near to the coast have cell towers. So that has advanced since we were down here in 2004 on Diane’s boat “Takes Me Away”. She is still around these parts so have been snorkeling with her in the Holandes.
The Christmas potluck and “white elephant” gift exchange (i.e. something you can find on your boat that you think others would like) celebration on “potluck or BBQ island” was organized by M/V Limeric but all contributed. We had music, lots of chatter, libations and food. The gift exchange created a lot of laughs as a gift was allowed to swap three times.
“Potluck Island” is a CLEAN, coconut palm tree, beach lined island because there is a cruiser couple that have earned the name “MAYOR” (Deb and Reggie on Runner) because they have been here living on their sailboat in the same spot for the last 10 years. This is an interesting feat as you need to renew your cruising permit and visa every 3 months. So they have paid off the officials somehow and the Kuna appreciate how clean they keep their island. In exchange we are allowed to have events on this island.
Since I know Dianne, I was blessed by being invited to go snorkeling with Dianne and Deb which is a treat since she knows all the reefs. She has named all the reef spots and fish as well! It is odd to see another boat from Minneapolis since I think being in the Caribbean Sea 4 years now we have met maybe 2 boats from MN.
We had a GREAT New Year’s Eve Party on SMALL potluck islands (Kunas didn’t name this island), swimming pool anchorage, Holandes Cays with x-mas lights strung on boat line between coconut palm trees, 2000 watt gas generator to power everything, NEW MOON big as ever and bright, bonfire, MP3 player, dancing, fireworks, burning of Muneco (doll) we created (Spanish ritual) to rid ourselves of last years bad spirits (a time for meditative silence) and a visit by a actual sized blow up kangaroo. There was lots of chatting and getting to know other cruisers. All this was put together by the cruisers – so was great fun and probably the first time I have been awake for New Years Eve and beyond in a long time so pushed the cruisers midnight from 9pm to 1am.
Potluck Island is also where we have yoga every 3rd day put on by a German lady on Naughty Bear so it’s been a real treat except my left elbow tendon continues to give me problems since MN house cleaning days…. Oh well. It’s such a great experience in this beautiful environment.
Plus there’s an odd event in that a large green turtle has visited the island 3 times since November trying to lay eggs (at least they think it is the same turtle). Odd in that this island has never had turtles laying eggs here, its very late in the season, its almost a full moon and since the island has lots of coconut trees the root system doesn’t make it very easy to find a suitable place to lay eggs but they keep digging. Yesterday a cruiser spotted a VERY large green (they think) turtle hanging around in the sea grass eating. So I would love to see her!
Saw the veggie/fruit Kuna boat 3 times during our 2 weeks in Holandes so doing well with BASIC veggie (potatoes, onions, carrots, cabbage) and fruit (pina, papaya, oranges, banana) items. But they also bring 1 liter wine boxes at $3.50. They only come to very cruiser populated islands so if you want groceries you sail to the 2 main villages or the main cruiser islands. But it’s not like you know when they are going to come so you ask if anyone knows on the morning SSB net.
The Kuna get their supplies from the large Colombian and Panama City boats. When we lived on land we never did partake in the groceries on wheels so we have stepped up our luxury living abit since coming to the San Blas! They even take orders but with no guarantees. So it’s a grocery boat to boat to boat transfer service. We burn paper on island and then have to wait till take big boat to deep to get rid of bottles, cans, etc. Wish there was another way….
We moved over to another isolated island (Esnasdup Cay) so hanging in this area for another 1-2 weeks before checking into immigration/customs then moving further east where more traditional villages. We timed our arrival so the sun is high in order to see the reefs. A LOT of these islands end in “dup” so you just jibber the first part and end in a solid dup and all will understand! Had same gay mola maker Venancio come to Holandes but didn’t buy molas (abit more than what we spent in 2004) now $20-50 each. So instead his nephew makes small replicas ulu sailing canoe’s and spiritual medicine dolls so bought that instead. Purchased some molas to make a top that another cruiser used to make/sell @ $100 for others but now they are in prison for cocaine possession on boat they brought to FL. for 7 years. So why would they do that at an age of 70??? So took digital shots of top and measurements and made me one. Have to do something with these molas besides pillows and bags…..
We did briefly chat with a couple women in Kayak following leader in Holandes. Apparently they get shuttled by big boat from Panama mainland and then paddle kayaks to San Blas to camp/etc. So eco tourism is spreading their wings. We actually met the owners of one of the outfits in Isle Tigre.
We splurged as on January 2nd we obtained our first lobster in the San Blas from the Kuna around $7 for a large 2 pounder. So we will have to refresh our lobster abilities. Then more splurging as it appeared that we had fisherman coming by most days. Too bad we got rid of the large pot in Trinidad but had never used it. But here the crabs are huge, $4-5 and get more meat. So we stuff them in our largest pot with alittle salt water and hold the cover down while placing on heat. It seems abit cruel but at least we are eating only the males. The season closes for 3 months on March 1st so need to take advantage of this while we can. Cleaning them is abit of a skill to avoid having guts all over you and/or on the meat.
While up in Green Island I got bit by something, a spider? 5 times. I had no idea that the end result after a week would be a swollen calf/foot. Later that day, a VHF call went out to fleet at Green Island to see if anyone had scuba gear to help find Pam on Glyde’s glasses. It was her only pair (which surprised me as this environment seems to eat them). It’s a miracle that I could locate them as it was near mangroves so visibility was bad and close to sunset. But we knew that if we didn’t try they would be gone by morning. We also organized a 70 year old birthday party on the beach for Dave on Cielo. He and Martha are my role models as they sail a similar boat, healthy, active and fun! I also attempted to spear some lobster I found but have lost the touch plus my rod is still bent from Scott (Saltine) missed attempts in the Bahamas.
We finally got checked in with customs/immigration in Porvenir after being here almost a month. The officers were kind and more concerned about my HUGE leg/foot than that I was 1 month late checking in. Initially I thought that my body could heal this bite but no go the calf/foot just kept getting larger and very painful. I found out that there was a Panama City doctor in residency in Wichabuala (near Porvenir) so I went along with all the rest of the Kuna ladies with children issues. He gave me a 28 day shot of penicillin. I brought all the rest of the meds/stuff that I had on our boat that he may want me to take based on other nurse cruisers thoughts. So I am also on Cipro, etc. I won’t be in this situation if I would have started Cipro earlier but I don’t like drugs…
Then we went to Carti (Kuna island of 1300 people) to meet up with Glyde (from Maine) and their guests from Canada (who have their boat in Scotland). While waiting for them they decided to help an elderly couple that went aground. During this process the Canadian man was on the boom and the topping lift broke, while sliding off cut open his right underarm. They called us on VHF to ask if we could see if there was a doctor available in Carti. His wife is a nurse but she said not for this job. So off we went and during the process found John (an 75 year old man that still manages 2000 coconuts and finca (farm) that knows some English because he was in Panama army during 30’s? when US had control over canal zone). He brought us thru the maze of straw houses to the clinic where the nurse/secretary said she would call the doctor. So John then brought us to buy some vegetables/bread before rescuing Neal from their boat to come back to the doctor. Well the Panama Gov’t doctors that are on a 20 day rotation (Joaquin A. Chen) put in 42 stitches. So while I was there I decided to ask if he had other suggestions for my bites.
It is truly amazing being in Kuna Lala land. I wish me new more Spanish to understand the culture more even though that is their second language. You guys will be here for at least 3 years based on your history! Today was an active day with the Kuna but that’s because we are in an area with an active traditional village (i.e. no motors and are known for their Ulu building skills). Most other locations we anchored at didn’t have a village and usually spend snorkeling, socializing with other cruisers, at times cooking lobster/crab. First I have to care for my 5 spider bites and swollen calf/foot that has gotten cellulites. It at times feels like a full time job putting saline packs, cleaning and dressing. The oozing of puss is pretty gross.
Tom/I went up a Torti river near where we are in Robeson’s Chain, Isle Gerti (but most islands end in dup) – the South/western most Kuna islands – where it is very traditional villages compared to the rest until you go way east. First you have to find it thru the mangroves and then paddle up till get to fresh water where most of the village in their "ulu’s" are getting water, washing clothes etc. which is what we did. Up river we got to know a Kuna guy that needed a new sail in his ulu so we told him we had a old blue tarp so he said he would stop by later. Well for that we are cambio (exchanging) a ride in a ulu sailing canoe. On our way back I saw some huts so climbed the hill to see that it was this area’s burial ground. It appears that the entire family gets buried under a V roof only hut. They leave various belongings of the dead on top of their grave. Then some boys came by looking for a handout so we put them to work to find a gecko (heco or aspin in Spanish/Kuna) to bring to us to cambio a printed photo they wanted of them in their Sunday best. Then a Kuna came buy selling fish for $1. Then Justino (the cruisers head contact for this island chain) came out to say that he had a newborn son (almost 2 months without a name as naming ceremony will be in 4 days) old that he wanted a family printed photo and to show us around his TINY island of 9 families with 70 people – I guess they don’t have any issues with populating. We saw a pig that apparently gets used by island during special ceremonies. This chain of islands is very low such that at times during high tide the streets must get soaked. We also got stopped by a mother with child that has some rash and wondering if we had anything for it. So Justino paddled over to our boat to bring back some calamine lotion. Justino apparently made an ulu for an American for $160. We saw an Ulu that was 40 years old and still going strong. Then Bredio (2nd cruiser contact) along with wife SipioPipi (fair skinned in Kuna) came to show us her mola blouses and a bead bracelet I had asked for the day before. Then some kids looking for "Carmela" candy…. During sun down you may hear the Sihilas (chief and sometimes also medicine man) chanting or during the afternoon as you walk a island you will hear a mother soothing her baby to sleep with rattles shaking. So it was a busy day. How about yours?
Unknown Questions:
How do the men shave? How do they have sex when they sleep in hammocks? When/How does a baby get named? How do they decide who manages the coconut trees islands or where in the mainland they can have a camposino/finca? Surprised that the women don’t want photos of themselves when come out to sell you molas with the entire families children and yet walk around breast naked while on their island? No one smokes or has long hair. I see at least one white/pink Kuna on each island – inbreeding issues? Interesting that they accept their gay Kuna’s.
The San Blas are pretty unique and beautiful — even though the Kuna/Panamanian’s have started some tourist palapa resorts and can go kayak/camping with a motor boat that shuttles you if weather bad…. The coconut tree island with white sand and turquoise water are awesome. We don’t have internet but do have cell coverage at times — just new last year with Digicel putting up towers. Sort of good/bad as now cruisers expect to have internet and are playing with Motorola Tools PC function with phone/modern usb connection to computer. We hope it will be never be like the eastern Caribbean and culture lost. The only hope is the Kuna’s like their lifestyle and are trying to control tourism, cruise ships which shuttle small boat loads at a time to village…. As selling of molas are still a major source of income as they/cruisers have overfished and cruisers are trying to discourage them from trying to sell small lobsters. But the sandy islands and snorkeling is still acceptable. Seeing them sail out in their dugout ulu’s is quite charming — especially as you pass them in a rough windy passage and amazed how well they do.
The other day an older couple stopped by as they were sailing to other islands to deliver plant medicine that they obtained from their finca. So I wish I had written down the Kuna names for these plants. I asked if they would sell me a basket they use to collect their fruit/medicine and they said upon their return. So later that day she brought some new baskets she had made while working in their finca. It is very strong and I have it in our cockpit to hold misc. fruit. The huts they build out of coconut palms are quite ingenious as well. She also had attempted to redo a tiny bead bracelet with pattern created while winding it around my wrist (tying each round with thread) – initially it was too large but now it was too small. So I felt bad as she worked extra on it so I bought it anyway.
Some boats have pets (mostly cats) but the most unusual is a chicken. Kevin (USA) on Maramina who continues to fix this boat after purchasing 2 years ago for around $3000. He had sailed minimally but is getting around fine with several dangerous experiences but he is young and resourceful. Anyway, he purchased this live chicken at the market in Cartagena to eat but after being around it for a day decided that he couldn’t. So the chicken is tied to the deck via its leg. Oddly enough it stays there while sailing. He has hoped it could start laying eggs but told him that he may want to find a crate so it has a secure home. Regardless he says that it has given him lots of laughs and doesn’t want any jokes about him “chocking his chicken”….
Tom’s daughter Teresa and husband Wayne came to visit end of January us for a week. It was a great week. They brought provisions from MN and PC so that helped restock us a lot (especially steaks). The weather was good except last 3 days with very overcast skies the entire day so that didn’t help our snorkeling events. We did a river/hiking trip with gay man Lisa who dresses as female – which was great. She doesn’t wear traditional Kuna clothing and usually women’s pants. She speaks some English so that was helpful to learn some of the culture. While hiking high in the hills there was a 1 year anniversary celebration in burial grounds of albino. They stay the entire day burning coco beans in pot on grave site. They bury their dead with possessions in hammock about 5 feet deep. Lisa has allowed other families that can’t afford to purchase a plot/burial site to use her’s. She said she paid $150 to the chief responsible for land on the mainland – close to their village. They need to clear this jungle spot and create paths through mountain. Kuna’s don’t pay for land used for farming/finca’s as this contributes to the welfare of the village. The Silha’s (village chief) keep the economic classes as one and each Friday have a meeting of village to manage any disputes/problems. But I suspect managing economics amongst families is becoming a bigger problem.
Lisa’s story is pretty interesting. In summary, she left to Panama City around 16 yrs old and came back to Rio Sidra when a full gay around 30. She is now 47. I believe she was the first gay they had to deal with more outwardly. She worked as female clothed stripper in military areas. The chief "Silah" had to figure out how to deal with her. She became creative and learned from her mother to make wonderful molas and contribute to the welfare of island with monetary donations. She however can not have a man live with her. So they sort of accept him/her. It appears there are more gays coming out as well as we are seeing males holding hands. Her mother arranged for Lisa to obtain her brothers daughter at infancy. The Kuna don’t allow marriage with Panamanian’s.
Each island also has a few albino’s which usually don’t live long. I feel bad as it must be painful with the sun as their skin has no pigment. I wonder if its because of all the inbreeding.
While with Teresa/Wayne we stopped at Carti Sugdup village on way back to Nonomulu where they took the jeep back to PC and saw a Chicha festival of girl coming of age and sampled the local drink (awful). I guess this goes on for 3 days. The locals were pretty drunk all over the village on the first day. Just like everywhere alcohol is a problem with youth but trying to be controlled by Silha. They create a sugar cane brew but we also saw LOTS of empty bottles of cheap white rum.
Marina costs are really going up as problems in Venezuela and bull dozing last year of Colon Panama Yacht club. This is also driving more cruisers to San Blas so currently around 190 in these islands. Fortunately there are lots of anchorages that are not marked on the guides so you can find some solitude. The SSB nets help out with finding out how many boats at various places along with communication/emails. Not sure what we will do for summer as still getting reports on how bad the rainy season is with dangerous electrical storms — we aren’t bonded but not sure that really matters. So we aren’t sure what we plan on doing this summer.
Went to a traditional village Isle Tigre (further east) to observe them celebrating their Independence Day (1925) and re-enactment. In 1925 the Panamanian police controlled the Kuna in the islands. They were very abusive and treated them like slaves. The Kuna rebelled 85 years ago buy killing the police and independence came about with the USA military assistance. It continues today with their own governing power over the islands with Sila (various chiefs) maintaining economic status and welfare of all the families of that island group. We do see the economic classes starting with some families having solar panel and battery to run their TV, music, refrig, etc. even though the island runs a generator used for lights and pumping water from the pipe coming from the mainland. The re-enactment was very realistic and bloody along with some Kuna traditional dance/music. Then followed by an all day drunk drinking cane sugar fermented to alcohol called Chicha. The villages always seem to be very clean.
We boat sat Sea Cycle/Audrey Paige sailboats in Nonomulu for a couple days as they took the 2 1/2 hour rough jeep ride across river, unimproved dirt road etc. from Carti (old airport on mainland used last year) San Blas to Panama City prior to Dan/Wendy x-cruisers from Toronto visiting us. They have property in Costa Rica so they flew from their and we will go back with to do some land travel and renew our visa for another 3 months. This is the only road reaching the San Blas and currently Panamanian Gov’t providing funds to tar road and build a bridge. Teresa/Wayne unfortunately got a bad driver (Estabon who works at Corvodonga Hotel tourist reception/restaurant) and almost rolled over so have to be cautious. Estabon told us that he had driven this road before but apparently hadn’t nor really knew how to drive a 4-wheel drive jeep. Wayne really wanted to drive but kept quiet. They were told that 12 people have been killed this year. Dan/Wendy had a much better driver. Wind died/raining and since so close to mangrove/mainland there are chichras (VERY small no seeums) that have BIG teeth and my menopausal heat state seems to attract them and give me lots of itchy welts — even with the screens in! Tom calls them “flying jaws”. This also happened in Nargana (non traditional village) where we went to rent a propane tank to fill our own tanks with a regulator that we had to borrow from Changing Tides from WI. and buy gas @ $4.00/gallon. Its been an odd winter with cold fronts pushing way further south and therefore the low over Columbia hits us with lots of clouds/rain and wind. But its still warmer than MN! We even saw thunder and lightening which we hear is more typical in summer here.
Our next visitors were Dan/Wendy x-cruising friends from Toronto in early March for 9 days. Unfortunately the weather was pretty windy/rainy/cloudy the first 5 days that Dan/Wendy were here so not very pleasant to snorkel or move where we had wanted to go. Then the last 2 days were very hot, no wind and lots of Chichras. They are no seeums that are so small you can only see the after affects of their bites. Our screens provide a small self defense as they may not always make it thru the first time. They come at sundown until the next mid day so I am up during the night with burning coils, spraying dark corners, screens and finally give up and spray me as I seem to be prone to bug bites! They were especially bad as we have had so much rain and lookout if you anchor too close to any mangrove lined island. Not the typical San Blas picture we wanted to bestow but they are past cruisers so they are better prepared for disappointment than most. We have never experienced it this bad! We did have a great time with all the normal events of beach walks/socials, snorkeling, visiting villages/people to see how they function, going up a river to see burial grounds, finca’s (farms), wildlife and to swim in fresh water.
During our boat sitting days there was no wind and the boats did a reversal during the night such that we were all on the lee coral shore. We watched throughout the night and by early morning the boats all turned back with the current except Luna Sea that they hadn’t asked us to watch but of course we were. During this time they are on rode only and swung differently than us so ended up on the reef. We went over but no motor key and we didn’t want to do something without additional help or better yet with the owners. Unfortunately they didn’t return but Celtic Dancer did so we tried to get it off the reef with sails up and 15 hsp outboard dinghy pushing. If the owners would left the motor key that also would of helped greatly. The 1 foot falling tide didn’t help matters either. So we had to wait till the next day but at least got the rudder off the reef so it wasn’t pounding so hard. Early the next morning, Celtic Dancer even dug abit of the sand reef out to relieve the keel abit.
That late afternoon the owners returned with the motor key. But we couldn’t assist as we had our Canadian guests, putting away provisions and dinghy was stowed on boat for early morning departure. It was a thriller but bone chilling to watch as again Celtic Dancer and 2 other Dutch boats in dinghy came to assist. In 20 knot winds they put up full sails, full diesel motor and 2 dinghies pushing – they finally got off. The boat was really healed over and bucking as she was finally freed from the reef fortunately with minimal damage. They were lucky as if someone hadn’t been around we were told that the Kuna will assume that if the boat has no owners and on the reef that they are allowed to salvage it. I guess it does make sense but there is always more to the story. I have never heard of any Kuna thefts and they are ruled strictly by the sila’s (chiefs). We have found the Kuna to be very kind and gentle but see the challenges the sila’s have in keeping a flat economic status amongst all families.
The 4 of our got picked up by a motorized ponga at 5am arranged by Paco in Nargana for a 6:30am airport departure. It was a beautiful morning with moon sliver and amazed how gracefully they weaved us around reefs/islands in the dark. We departed San Blas via Air Panama at Corzon de Jesus/Nargana 1.5 hours late, hot and with more chichra bites. During our wait we retreated to the water on another cruisers dinghy. It was very full but effective. The 45 minute flight allowed many vistas of islands and mountains. After arrival, I (Rose) got a $2-3 taxi to get to a referred dentist as I had chipped my tooth and filling so thought I was going to need a crown. I would meet up with the rest at the Albrook bus terminal/mall for our 11pm bus departure to Costa Rica that will take 15 hours. Fortunately, instead of a $450 crown the dentist recommended a new filling for $65. Its amazing how strong the new resins are as it looks like a new tooth. Never a dull moment in this cruising life!!
Peace and Love – Keep in touch even if it’s a short email.
Live your dreams!
Rose & Tom