MORE Antigua & Guadeloupe Travel Logs:
It seems that I was having a thing with animals during my hikes while Tom was gone. I told of the baby goat story earlier. Well I must sound like a mother goat as Vicki witnessed 2 small goats came across hill toward me thinking I was their mother. They stopped immediately and were very upset providing a shreaking Bahhh. The real mother responded and off they went in the other direction. It was very enduring but created a challenge for the young.
Then there was the bull on top a high hill that was tied to a lone tree but rope was wrapped around such that it couldn’t get to any food. I wasn’t sure how often the owner came to check on so thought I would help it out. Well it was as stubborn as I can be and was difficult to chase it round and round as it looked like it was going to charge so I had to use my farming skills! Another hike we found an abandoned horse that was tied short to a tree such that it couldn’t get any food nor water. It was barely alive and standing. We walked closely to it to untie it from tree. It made no jestures of this action and immediately walked toward grass. We had some water so poured into our hats for it to drink. Then it started walking briskly toward and down the road as if it was going back home. It stopped in an area that had more water and softer grass so we left it there and walked toward the horse stable down the road to inform them of this. They said this happens a lot and would bring it some food/water.
I did finally do some volunteer work at Cobbs Cross Primary Gov’t thru Principle Mrs. Barton Principle. She still hadn’t spoken to her superiors but I did assist teachers abit one day but mostly I helped the library headquarters staff (2 women) come and reorganize the library. This library looked like it hadn’t been used in quite some time as it looked like a storage facility for anything they didn’t know what to do with. This is a shame as the Gov’t had created programs to promote reading. The staff had mentioned that its difficult to promote proper English as most of the parents don’t speak it. Initially the school wouldn’t allow their slang in the classroom but is difficult to enforce which is why reading is so important. So we cleaned, reorganized and removed MANY OLD and added some new books. As they were trying to figure out what to do with the old books, I mentioned that since this is the start of a 2 week spring break that maybe we should let the children take what they want. It was amazing to watch the children rummage thru the books. The energy amongst the children became a war on who could grab the most. But then we suggested that they couldn’t take any more than their backpacks could hold and to share with their friends. Well most of the books were gone so that temporarily saved the garbage dump. The teachers had a potluck lunch for us so was able to explore more of the local food and juice drink. It was great! I found it interesting that many of the locals had never been on a boat before nor spoken to anyone that lived on a sailboat. They asked some questions of me after I introduced myself but have learned that most are not as curious as me as I asked them questions about their lives.
My folding bike was locked next to the security guard building. I got to know 2 female security guards (Andrea & Keisha) that were teaching me how to communicate like locals. I brought Andrea onto our sailboat as she had never been on one before. She was shocked about how everything in a house could fit down below. I told her that most sailboats are a lot bigger than ours. Keisha spoke of trying to find a way to crew on the boats and travel so I suggested she talk to Janes Yacht service to see what needs to be done.
Lesson One:
To Greet — whatgwan or howyasay
Response — meseeif or itday
I did meet many locals. Oliver (the park service employee that worked at the garbage area) whose nephew and brothers girlfriend were severly burned (75 to 90 percent) due to using race fuel to start the barbeque. Cruisers and locals reached out and assisted in providing funds. It was sad to hear the story from Oliver as this women has 2 small children. Joyce and Carl’s friend Elizabeth who works at the Dockyard laundry where I will be bringing gift bag to sister in Dominica. Dutch who moved back and trying to start a outboard service business and said to call if I had any problems. Etc.
Many cruiser got hit by debit card (ATM) fraud in Antigua with thousands of dollars taken from our bank accounts. We finally got the police and local Antigua Bank to alert heardquarters and attempt to fix the problem. So a lot of us were scrambling to figure out how to get money and file reports back in various countries. I was fortunate that Tom could handle this back in MN and Vicki brought down a new credit card (as that had been cancelled a month before due to perceived fraud). So in future we should get money via debit card by seeing a bank teller.
Vicki Staudte came to visit while Tom was away which was AWESOME! After a few days of cruisers parties/games, we decided to leave for Barbuda. Prior to leaving the diesel didn’t want to start so had to pump it a few times and then it started. Was abit worried initially as I thought I may have to bleed the fuel pump. We had 2 days of great sailing Mon/Tues 13nm from Falmouth to Deep Bay Antigua and then 30nm from Deep Bay to Low Bay Barbuda. We tried to do too much Wed as we walked in water and some muck on the south side of lagoon 6 miles to village and then back and tried to get into Spanish point but had to tack and decided to be safe and anchor in coco bay for the evening. While in village (Codrington) the Prime Minister (Spenser) was there and so was the camera crew getting info to promote Barbuda. So there we were walking the street and so they asked us if they could interview us. They were shocked to see 2 women sailing here from Antigua. Actually they didn’t even think that this was a sailing destination as there are no facilities. Its true you have to be self sufficient here! So maybe I should pick up local Antigua paper — but probably on the news. So lots of stars and heard donkey’s bellowing throughout evening so now we have heard wind, church bells, roosters, gulls, goats and donkey’s while at various anchorages. Thursday we snorkeled at Coco Pt (not great) and then after squall came through we motored 4nm to Spanish point around 12:30pm but was still scary as max sea PC charts were way off in how we could pick our way through coral. (nice lesson that we can’t go into challenging harbors at night) We loved the LONG beaches and some with pink sand. I downloaded spot report and Tom would send text of Chris marine report (via SSB) to determine how to get out of here and get to north sound Antigua. We need good sun to get out of here and yet takes 7 hours to get to anchorage in north sound. So abit tricky. I have had my work cut out for me and really would of liked to have Tom here to confirm my thoughts but Vicki and I did GREAT! WOMEN RULE! I just realized tonight that I have more travel hours on Sojourn that he does as every summer I would take her out with women/sisters for a few weekends. At Spanish Pt. we snorkeled during day and then again at night where we saw HUGE lobsters barely able to get out of their hole, a couple spotted dolphin eagle rays and many other fish.
After a night of nightmares Thurs. while sleeping in preparation for fears of departing Spanish Point Friday and all its reefs earlier than should due to sun — but then decided to depart early via east exit as its easier and it was overcast this am. So departed Barbuda at 8ish and got into North Sound – Parham Antigua (village on north side) around 2ish. Broad reaching with various following seas but acceptable and sailed most of way — Self Steerer Pierre had difficulty but did help. We walked around what was the capital of Anitgua but now abandoned. Then next day we moved to anchorage between Rabbit/Redhead near Great Bird Island which is a bird sanctuary. Enroute we saw a BIG appearing solo dolphin that must of gotten lost and came inside the reef — BEAUTIFUL! We found some great islands behind reef to hike and explore caves and snorkeling wasn’t great but okay. But there was a N/NE wave and possible Tropical Wave bringing stronger winds which is reason we came back a day early.
After Vicki’s departure I sorta rescued a US crew (Lynn) from California off of another solo male sailboat that weren’t getting along. It was during the regatta so both of us were gone most of the day so just told her where the keys were and would usually meet up during the evening Classic Regatta events. The classics were amazing and how wonderful to be able to walk up to any boat on the docks for a closer view. RPhurst, Toshtego, etc. hiked to a hill each day for a closer view of the race outside Falmouth. I could of been crew on a boat but had decided that I wanted to go out on the film boat in order to see all the boats. It was most interesting as I met Henry who is 85 yrs old and still races however Maribel was in for service so was a spectator this year. So taught us alot. We even saw a private spectator sailboat get caught up in the mooring lines of a race committe boat. There wasn’t that much damage but very dramatic as the committee boat had to release from the ball and yet keep track of the ending mark.
Honeymoon of Tom’s return evening of April 22nd (gone for almost 2 months) lasted four days before the strange events unfolded on Sojourn. At least we are still talking to each other. It was great to see and hug him!! Other cruisers were happy to see their parts, etc.
We had a great sail from Antigua to Guadeloupe and now in Les Saintes. We had heard other sailors that day almost run into a pod of whales but we didn’t see any — Bum! But boy have we had a challenge with systems the last week while in French speaking countries (Guadeloupe), remote anchorages and without service facilities. Link Regulator malfunctioned allowing alternator to overcharge the batteries, batteries not holding charge so equalized (all night with generator) to remove sulfate, oil jug leaked into bilge, water jug leaked into freezer, diesel wouldn’t start so with assistance from Bruce MN cruiser (once he arrived in same anchorage) determined it was a bad relay so we by passed it temporarily. Then to make matters worse we thought that since Bruce had a refrig pressure gauge that we should look at our cold plate. Bruce decided that it needed freon so we added but now it must be over charged as the frig isn’t freezing as cold as it had been. So now we decided we needed internet to call Adler Barber and ask questions BUT we needed to wait for Bruce as he is still up 1 anchorage and has the gauges. We met up with Daniel Storey after not seeing for 5 months so they offered to store some of our frozen meat that was thawing. This took us 3 days of trouble shooting and monitoring the gauges and believe we have temporarily succeeded but will have it checked when get to a competent refrigeration technician. So this is what cruisers do all day! At least we were anchored at a few beautiful, small French island. I have to say that I (Rose) DIDN’T handle this very well. Not sure how much is menopause starting, menstruation after not having for 2 months or dealing with not being able to control outcome! Regardless I guess I am learning about myself and started reading some self help books. I have chatted with other women about this type of thing and they agree that challenges like this are much different than dealing with similar stuff when on land. Thank goodness for other cruisers as its amazing how we help each other!