I haven’t felt very inspired to write any text but thought that maybe I should update at least on TOBAGO.  Cruisers talk about this island a bunch as its abit difficult to get to and therefore not visited by many.  I think of this island similar to Barbuda as it’s out of the flow but Barbuda is less inhabited and no tourists.  Both are NOT set up for cruisers to obtain water, fuel, repair services nor dock to land your dinghy.  Tobago has more inhabitants, roads and tourists as it is a vacation spot for nearby Trinidad.   Four cruisers were trying to find a good weather window for about a month to get there as it has current and trade winds working against you.  Most attempt this from Carriacou area but we ended doing it from the last island in the chain – Grenada. In the end only 2 of us opted to take a night crossing in light NE wind with low waves and no squalls predicted.  We light motor sailed most of the way as had .05-1 knot of current most of the way.  Initially we thought we would have to bear off and go to Trinidad as the wind was light but in our face.  But we gave it another hour and light NE/E winds appeared.  So we had a July 4^th celebration in making it to TOBAGO!

 

We needed to check into the country (customs/immigration) so looked for the best spot to beach the dinghy without getting soaked with salt water from the swell.  This island doesn’t really have a lee side as it sits NE to SW which creates for more swell and rolly anchorages.  So off we went to find a taxi/bus to Scarborough to check in.  One always asks us — what do you do all day.  Well we spent most of the day checking in by walking back and forth between customs and immigration before we were finally cleared and paying overtime fees as it was a Saturday.  Only to find out that we have to come back to get a “release” to go to northern anchorages and then get in/out release papers once leave Charlottesville.  That’s after convincing them that we need to stop in anchorages and can not go directly to Charlottesville. Then finally to get another release paper once we head for Trinidad.  So we saw a lot of customs/immigration and of course didn’t always find both officers and would get in trouble at other opposite offices.   Oh well – we would just say that we were doing as told.   Blue Water Cat didn’t get a release form and was threatened to be fined $4K TT but talked his way out of it.  I guess US Homeland security encouraged them to keep track of all boaters since this island is remote and drugs are passing through.

 

Then there was the ½ day spent trying to get our phone to work with last years SIM card and getting “top up minutes”.  We went from spot to spot as phone was somehow put onto a different frequency.  So we buy 2 $20TT top up and I ask if there is any deal currently.  Agent says no and asks if she can enter the top up codes into phone only to see a brochure that says you get another $20TT each month you buy a “top up” but she didn’t offer that.  It’s no big deal but is very indicative of how islanders think.  If the jar of peanut butter isn’t in front of them they don’t think to go see if there is some in back…. Unless you ask.  But then you get someone like manager Imran that helped us find a refrigeration guy, Khaleel (that works for the Gov’t) to drive from Scarborough to our boat to check coolant with pressure gauges for $60TT.  He had never done this type of service before so was amused. We tried to buy some gauges to check ourselves but the island was out and one set coming from Trinidad the following day so we thought we would wait till get to Trinidad.

 

So with our “release” we headed up island.  Here are some highlights:

–          Around 10pm went into shore at Plymouth to search for leatherback turtles laying eggs.  We were successful and found a local SOS volunteer organization to protect/assist turtles and share information.

–          Snorkeled most anchorages and found some beautiful large queen/French angelfish and turtles.

–          Blue Water Cat caught a 4’ mahi mahi which fed us for 3 meals.

–          This time of year if hurricane season so get lots of tropical waves coming thru providing lots of rain and possible squalls.  We left a few days early due to one that was predicted to turn into a tropical depression BUT didn’t but would have had more rain anyway so left.

–          Went hiking lots to see tropical trees, wildlife and birds.  Also went walked to a bird sanctuary.  It’s interesting that island birds down here usually have LONG tail feathers so not sure if used with the winds.  There is a primary bird called the Cocricoo that I kept hearing at anchorage as their call sounds like their name and can be quite noisy.  Finally I saw them at the sanctuary plus some very colorful birds.

–          First time I could actually smell flowering trees at anchor by Mt. Irvin.  Usually you hear music, roosters, goats, etc. but too far away from land to smell something besides burning trash.  I found the fruit flowering tree and reminded me sorta of lilacs which bring me back to MN.

–          Beautiful remote anchorages with beaches, palm trees, rocky hills and remote roads to hike. Englishmen’s was maybe our favorite.  I will have to remember this while in crowded Chagaramas, Trinidad while doing boat projects of adding water maker, solar panel, fiberglass propane tanks, etc.  Then off to Venezuela where I better start practicing Spanish as going west is more 3^rd world plus more crime.  We have heard reports where cruisers get boarded while underway via a pirogue (fishing boat) with 2 large outboard motors and 5-6 armed men.  YIKES!!  So you need to travel with another boat for protection.

–          On the passage to Trinidad we had all sorts of ODD weather.  We were sailing along with 2 knots of current with us with following seas and I noticed a garbage water line and immediately after passing this line the winds/waves/lost current and had opposing tide on the nose.  Then as you get closer to the opening into the gulf on a rising tide the seas start to swell as I suppose the opening is too small so waves bounce back so its like the water is boiling.  Its amazing what you see just watching and living with wind and water as your main transportation!! 

–          Saw dolphins a couple times which is always a delight.

–          Most buses in the islands are Small Mini Vans ( in the states maybe an 8 passenger version) that have somehow been refitted to hold 15 passengers plus the driver and a "helper" riding shotgun whose job it is to keep his eyes out for likely fares, collect the money and free the driver up so he can concentrate on whipping past everyone on the road. No one asks for a stop, they just bang on the roof to be let out. If the shotgun sees someone  walking toward the road he yells to stop and the next thing you know the bus is driving down the road  BACKWARDS, sometimes even turning down the side road driving Backwards to pick up the fare. It is definitely an adventure.

–     I had the best "roti" curry stew wrap I have ever had from a local street black woman vendor that learned how to cook this from her indian maids.  It is a east indian food that has curried meat, potatoes, green mango, pumpkin, chick peas.

–     Oil is king down here and therefore taking up a lot of fishing space.  To appease the fishermen the oil companies are building these Fish Aggregation Devices to try to attract fish.  Well they aren’t marked on charts YET so a big concern for cruisers as they are just bamboo rafts connected with cable 35meters apart.  YIKES!!!

 

Well till we get inspired to write again.   Keep us posted as to your life and remember to LIVE YOUR DREAMS.

 

Our Love

Rose & Tom