Currently anchored at Ste. Anne’s, Martinique (French Island).   Below is abit of a travel log.

Since our last writing, we have traveled from BVI to St. Martin to Sint Eustatius to Nevis to Les Saintes to Dominica to Martinique.  Next jump is to St. Lucia.  

The overnight trip from Virgin Gorda (BVI) to St. Martin (crossing of Anegada) started out okay with on/off sailing w/o motor but last 25nm wind increased to 15kn on the NOSE.  So we had to tack back forth.  Finally approached Marigot (french side) anchorage with a rain rinse which we needed.  We spent May 5^th to 10^th.  Time flies as we didn’t even do much exploring.  We replaced a bildge blower again, waiting for next weather window and hung out with Vagebond (on dutch side) before they departed for Holland.  

Another overnight from Nevis to Les Saintes – hopefully our last.  It was a pretty good crossing (i.e. no wind on the nose) with close hauled sailing – even without a motor.  We are almost finished with our needing to go east where the prevailing winds are E/SE.  

We explored Guadeloupe/Les Saintes (French Island) for about 4-5 days.   We anchored in Les Saintes and took the ferry $19/person to Trois Rivieres, Guadeloupe and rented a car @ $23 Eu/day.  Drove to National Park and hiked 4 hours up/back to 2 waterfalls (apparently the tallest in the eastern carib). They were spectacular but abit wore out from that.  Then we drove up to Saint Claude, west side of national park (La Soufriere) and looked at rain forest from west side then drove back via coast.  Wonderful day.  Much more to explore on Guadeloupe so will come back and anchor here to save on ferry costs.  

We really have enjoyed the Les Saintes, Terre de Haut island, Le Bourg town is where we anchored (feels like the Mediterranean.)  We heard Catholic church clock bells and roosters all night.  Rose walked over for fresh baguette and croissants this AM before the tourists arrive via ferry. We also hiked to a remote beach the other side of Terre with spectacular vistas.  We saw a very remote goat farm which was very dry so hope they are okay.   Now this is what cruising is all about! 

Saturday, May 19^th (Rose’s B-Day) we spent sailing close hauled to get from Les Saintes to Dominica (40nm – 7 hours). We knew we didn’t have time to truly explore the island so will come back this winter so we didn’t clear in with customs/immigrations BUT we did want to go to shore to stretch our legs and possibly have dinner. As we had the dinghy on deck tied down and leaving Sunday early AM for Dominica to Martinique (35nm – 6 hours)  SO we VHF’d one of the local boat boys (Poncho) to pick us up to go to shore. So we did go to dinner even though most restaurants are closed from 3-7pm and stores are closed Sunday afternoon/evening — typical in most islands.  We talked the owner of restaurant to let us eat early.

Tourism in most islands is in the winter so they just get cruisers going south now. I spoke to a Dominica carib women with 2 yr old child (w/o husband) that started up a hotel/restaurant/bar/tourism business after she struggled financially to graduate college in Texas. Had the child in NY so that she would be a US citizen and be able to go to college cheaper. She spoke of the issues in Dominica as minimum wage isn’t enough to pay for apartment/electric — so alot of security issues and since its a mountainous island and hurricane destroyed their banana crop and most educated move to the states — struggling. They are an independent British colony.

Sunday, May 20th we sailed with seas at 6-8 feet and winds 20-25kn @ 130′ which is very close hauled and tough on the rigging of this 1985 sailboat. We were screaming across the Carib Sea opening. Chris Parker was way off with his weather prediction. Our self steering wind vane "Pierre" is steering as our electric wheel pilot isn’t able to handle these conditions. So we just hang on and assist with sail trim and steering as needed AND try to stay dry behind the dodger. We are occasionally taking big waves into the cockpit. The boat handled it well. This is probably the worst conditions we have been in since we left the Great Lakes. During this trip the boat jerked from a large wave and our navigation computer went flying — amazing that it came back to life.  We also lost an empty diesel jug.  Previous day a water jug sprung a leak.  So fortunately another cruiser has a spare water jug we can buy and I was able to repair the other water jug so will convert one of our water jugs (red) into diesel.  All things do work out!  Saw dolphins upon arrival which haven’t seen since Bahamas.

We walked around Ste. Pierre, Martinique (French island). Its quite beautiful with Mt. Pele and other hills and lots of hiking so will hang here abit before heading to south end of island. We hope the boat rocking side/side dies down or Tom will get frustrated and want to leave. Bummer that the exchange rate is $1.40 Euro to $1 US – thanks to BUSH and gang! It would be nice to know some French. Not sure how long we will be in Martinique. I went to bed hearing carib French music/band (almost salsa sounding with Ecuador flute and African banjo drums).  We at times wonder what we are doing here and doesn’t seem real. But we are enjoying our journey but looking forward to slowing way down this next winter.

Monday, May 21st was a GREAT day. We stayed at Ste. Pierre to explore abit before heading to Ste. Anne’s (south side of Martinique). We ended up taking a local bus for $2 Euro to Fonts St Denis to hike/explore the Canal de Beauregard which was built by the slaves to divert river water to the rum distilleries.  It is a beautiful hike in the rain forest and you actually walk on the 18" wide outer canal wall abunch of the time with steep drop offs. Then we hitch hiked back and had a late lunch (Creole fish) at a local bar.  I was surprised they would serve us at 3pm as usually they close between 2-7pm until they open for dinner. 

Had a lite motor sailing day to Ste. Anne’s where we met up with Halcyon Days.  Weather turned more on our nose but we were blessed with abit of a shower prior to arrival.  It is amazing how in Superior we would dodge showers but here we actually head toward them.  The risk is that the wind could be quite strong as it passes.   We went ashore in late afternoon to explore island abit and was able to participate with the Abolition of Slavery holiday where they had parade, music, etc.  We even had our own private musical group as we sat at local bar having a local beer Lorraine.   It seems that most of these French villages have a catholic church with clock bells.  It is purely charming.   I see they also have rosary most AM’s (my childhood memory).  We also have been enjoying the reasonably priced wines and cheeses on these French islands!  So yes life is good.   

Its weird to have sun everyday pretty much since we left in June, 2006.  The rain seems to spit on you these days as it never really amounts to anything but it does provide abit of salt rinse.  We are grateful that we added weather clothes as our low profile boat gets pretty wet most crossings.  

We didn’t have internet since St. Martin until Martinique.  What’s really cool but takes abit of battery time is via SSB-Sailmail you can view/request/delete your pop 3 e-mail accounts.  So we use this minimally but is helpful.  So anything important should still be sent to our sailmail account (with no pictures, previous message text, etc.).

Looking forward to seeing you!  

Peace & Love

Rose & Tom