Yes this tropical sweating/hot flash thing is starting to get abit old. We are starting to think about options. Sorta looking forward to cruising east coast, New England and Canadian Maritimes in a year or two.
Lourdes from Mexico City left 4-28 6:30 AM via small 20 seater plane in San Blas to Panama City after being with us a week. It was fun to share this odd part of our life and cruising craziness! It all worked out well and was nice to have a Spanish speaking person on board to get more details into the Kuna life. We pushed ourselves and went on a ALL DAY hike and short river trip to 2 inland Kuna villages. The second more beautiful and clean. It was very interesting to see more of the jungle and thank goodness it was flat for all of our aging muscles with minimal chichras (small no seeums), sun, etc. I organized this with a 38 yr old kuna man (Justino) that lives in a traditional village with only sailing ulu’s (dug out trees into canoe like boat). I sorta advertised this over SSB nets in AM to see if other cruisers wanted to do it. This same trip taken in November/December would of been only a 20 min hike and mostly river trip to inland Kuna Mandiga village as river would be high since right after rainy season vs now. We initially started out with the chiefs outboard motor on a SMALLER ulu but the 5 of us nearly tipped it several times in calm water so decided to trade up to the Sihlas (chiefs) larger ulu as we had to cross some distance. It was interesting to traverse several streams, rivers and left over US military airport to bring supplies into Panama City (so we were told). Because the village was on the mainland they had alot more room to spread out vs being on an space restricted island. Since living next door to family is so important, we have seen where they extend the island land with reef and fill. It was also interesting to see how they extract the juices of the sugar cane by having the cane go thru 2 tree trunks with a person putting pressure by hopping up/down on another trunk. They use the juice for chicha (alcohol) festivals and for a cocoa drink we tried.
They also have built towers that they climb in order to use their cell phones which is a new addition to their life. But I’m sure with that comes the constant cost that they have to deal with.
The following day we sailed another kuna man (Bredio – brother in law to Justino as they are married sisters) on our boat to the Carti Sugdup and back to Robesons (7nm) to pick up his pregnant wife and son that went to the Carti clinic. She had a yeast infection that went to the bladder as she was treating it with medicine man techniques. We both shared abit about our lifestyle choices. It was cool to see him sail our boat and look around the rigging, etc. Bredio (38 yrs) was born in Carti grew up in Panama City as his parents died but met a Kuna and based on tradition the man moves to the woman’s island/home area. So he speaks Spanish and kuna but has had to learn alot of lifestyle and sailing ulu’s. The skies were overcast and as he were anchoring there was some confusion and we came very close to putting Sojourn on a reef. That was abit too exciting for ALL of us but Bredio didn’t show any panic as I suppose the reefs are there playground. Afterward he asked how deep was our keel…
A few weeks back while in the northern most islands we contracted some mola work with a Kuna lady (Termida Morales) that summers there in a camp but lives in Carti Tupile. She was telling us in broken Spanish/Kuna that her sister died and so she was caring for her children along with some other story. I say story as thereafter I was told that she maybe lies abit. I gave her a swimming suit cover up, Tom’s long sleeve shirt and a free hat that I had dyed green (along with some other white stuff). Regardless, if I can help out a elderly lady that looks like she needs the money – why not. So when Bredio was with us I asked him to help me find Termida on Carti Tupile. It was interesting as of course we were brought to her house via another Kuna and she was surprised to see me. She told me that her daughter was in Banadup East Lemmons working on these items and that Termida would be returning to Banadup and then back to Carti Tupile on May 1st. So ………
The rest of the Lourdes vacation week, we relaxed and went to beautiful coconut palmed islands with turquoise water shades AND snorkeled every day. She initially was uncomfortable with snorkeling so we tried different tactics of dinghy drift snorkeling, etc. where she could still hold onto a line attached to the dinghy. It worked and she was able to cover more of the reef. Lourdes did get abit beat up with a few bug bites, toe stubs, cuts, bruises in learning how to get in/out of the dinghy, etc. She says that this lifestyle is much harder than she expected, lots of thinking, fixing, planning, etc.
Boy as the wet season approaches you really need to choose your anchor spot as these TINY flying JAWS (Chichras – no seeum like) can drive you crazy! They affect me more than Tom which is odd. We had chichras hiding from being at Nargana where we stayed prior to dropping Lourdes at the airport by 6:30am. It is close to mainland and lots of mangrove islands so with no wind it got really bad. I often wonder how many times a chichra can bite you and oh wish they would die like I believe mosquitos do after biting. I will have to do some research to determine what besides Vitamin B and deet repells them. Speaking of which we just found out that Permethria (probably pick some up at Fleet Farm as for animals) diluted and sprayed on screens kills them on contact as we don’t have noseeum screens on our port lights/hatches (bad for humans while spraying as well so need to be careful). OKAY — enough on chichras — just never seen anything SO small in all our travels.
What is a Chacososanna (chickens ass)? Well I don’t know how to spell this but it refers to the strong squally STRONG winds and sometimes rain during the rainy season that come out of nowhere and come from ALL directions. So that means that you need to leave lots of space between boats and 360’ swing room with no shallow reef to bite you. Well we had our first May 4th around 8am at the Lemmon Cays (west). We were both grateful that this didn’t happen around 3am in the morning. We were initially fine but all of a sudden the boat jerked sideways and out came out anchor which we had checked a couple days earlier. So fortunately, Tom had already started the engine and I was turning on GPS, navigation program in case we had to leave the anchorage and go out to sea. The winds are unbelievably noisy along with the wind generator. So we finally shut it off as it scares you and makes communication difficult. Plus our wind speed just stopped working so don’t really know how hard it was blowing. Maybe better for the nerves not to know.
First we had to figure out if we could get the anchor to hold but with each gust the boat kept dragging it and we were getting closer to another anchored boat (that also dragged). So a lot of shouting going on between us to communicate what we thought we should do. Finally we both decided to pull up (as anchor was barely helping) and attempt to anchor again. It requires a lot of power to keep the boat where you want to drop the anchor and give some scope but after a couple tries we did it and Sojourn was safe again through the rest of the squall. Once Sojourn was safe we noticed another boat from Kansas called Sojourner that had dragged and went up on the reef. So after inflating our dinghy that has a slow leak, I suggested to Tom and I could handle Sojourn. So off he went to try to provide some help. It’s a sad sight to see another boat leaning over on her keel/side struggling to free itself from the sand/rubble of the left over reef. Odd that another German sailor that also dragged decided to pull anchor and help Sojourner by pulling her off along with dinghies trying to help where they could. Finally Tom suggested to owner to kedge off by pulling down on the mast (with the halyard) along with the other sailboat pulling. It worked and Sojourner springed back into action which in itself is somewhat dangerous as all these lines have to be managed so they don’t get wrapped up in the propeller along with its own anchor chain still deployed. It was an exciting morning and one that keeps us alert as additional Chacososanna’s appear.
What’s bad as at another anchorage (swimming pool in Holandes Cays) they have already had 3 sailboat episodes – so its been a busy month already. First boat (GMA3) had a direct hit to their mast and took out A LOT of systems. Second boat (Blue Fox) ran onto a reef while entering anchorage and while being freed snapped off the top of his main mast as it is a ketch. Third boat (Icarian) got t-boned while anchored by a departing large sailboat which tore off stanchions, lifelines, chain plate for lower stanchion along with other stuff. So a request went out to other sailors to see what parts they could gather to rectify temporary repairs in order to limp back to Cartagena. There are no marine stores in the San Blas. I suspect being in this area is similar to what it was like sailing in Eastern Caribbean 15 years ago. Icarian had to motor to the Porvenir to file a report with the Port Captain for the San Blas. So we don’t sit around and eat bonbons all day. As captain Ron would say – “If its going to happen its going to happen out there.”
Two days before my birthday (as Tom says double nickels) I got another bunch of bites probably from the beach that don’t show up till 24 hours later and then they have a pussy head on them. I went snorkeling the day before my birthday and the pressure of the fin pushed the venom deeper into the skin tissues, then the foot swelled up, hot and painful. This area is the first time I have had such reactions. I must be allergic to this bug so I decided to start skin tissue antibiotics (good thing I had sailor doctor Jim Hatch in Bemidgi order some more and Teresa bring them down). I don’t like taking antibiotics but fear for what happened in January where my entire leg swelled up. So I guess I need to lather up with bug goop anytime I go to a beach for a walk which I don’t like either. My birthday night we went to a Argentina boat for a potluck with cruisers from Italy, Canada and USA.
The next day I was waiting for Tom to wish me a Happy Birthday but he didn’t. I gave him hints and still nothing until I read him a birthday wish email. So I was abit disappointed but I guess it is MY DAY so I just went ahead with celebrating me. That morning Tom mentioned it to our Maine friends that were departing to Linton (Panamarina where we ultimately will be) on one of the morning SSB nets. So I had birthday wishes from friends and then a German boat that we know brought over a small birthday cake. My first birthday cake since cruising. Then I got a big potato free from the vegee boat since we offered them juice drink. During the day I went snorkeling but with only the left fin as right foot still sore. Then that evening we played Bocce Ball with German, US and Italian cruisers at anchorage. So a great day but at our ages we need a birthday week!
I decided to make some more swim suit cover ups so needed to find more Kuna ladies to add a mola pattern. I had a total of 4 different Kuna ladies assist with that. We met Ingui, a Kuna lady that was raised in Colon but decided to come back to island Kuna life at age 38 not married. So she speaks Spanish which most ladies don’t. Its interesting as she is hanging with a gay Kuna guy “Prado” that also makes mola’s. Another Kuna lady was Lanais from Isle Tigre that was camping on an island in the E. Hollandes. Interesting in that I had taken pictures of her during the Revolution celebration so I printed them off for her/family.
Then there was Rosalinda from Orosidup near Robesons camping in E. Lemmons who had 2 white children and husband Rouliano who got discharged as a Sihla for being too rough. We have noticed that the albino’s don’t live very long – maybe 30 yrs old. We believe that they may be starting to have in-breeding issues. The albino children appear in pain as they squint with their eyes to see and usually have skin sores from the salt water/bug bites on their sensitive skin. We have tried to help out with sun glasses and antibiotic cream. The elderly women like reading glasses which we have provided as well.
One night at E. Lemmons, we had another informal unplugged music jam (Tom played percussion) with cruiser left overs from this years “No Mas” band. Ingui and Prado plus family were still there so they attended. The ladies were amused but Prado played morraco and danced up a storm with us so it was fun to interact.
Sometimes things happen and at the moment you are thrilled but then forget the next day. So I’m going to document a few of them.
One morning I woke at my normal 6am to download weather and email. Tom is net controller and I weather reporter on some various nets. I immediately saw a eagle ray jump out of the water. Why do they do that? Are they being chanced or just excited to be alive? Then we were motor sailing to go try to find the sea horses other cruisers found at a remote island that is exposed to South where the squalls come from during the rainy season so we can’t stay there overnight. A Dolphin pod (20 or so) decided to play with Sojourn’s bow wake along with jumping. Again were they bored and liked the feeling of our wake against their snouts or adventure of swimming with something larger? Another boat that had found a black with pink stripe sea horse a month prior had come back to the San Blas and decided to join us that day to see if it was still in the same spot. It was but the previous days strong squalls hit this shore so it was hanging on for its life under a purple gorgonia, behind a small yellow coral head in about 8-10′ of water. Then a few days later we swam with 40 baby squid under our boat. We had heard there was a crocodile at Green and Carti island but didn’t think it was true till I saw photos — it was HUGE so guess will be more cautious next time we go snorkeling! So sea life can be difficult as well.
While anchored at W. Lemmons, the internet spot of Kuna Yala, where we have participated in some music gigs but not the best snorkeling anchorage. The day we were going to leave Ruben a Kuna fisherman that lives at Carti Sugdup (10 nm but a day away in a sailing ulu) approached us and asked for a gallon of gas (about $4) as he heard that his wife was very sick and needed to borrow his fathers wooden ponga that had a 10hsp outboard. Tom said we can’t keep giving to these Kuna every time they want something as I am a softy. But I said even if it doesn’t happen we would only be out $4. He said that he would be back and give us some fish. We said that we were leaving but would be back to collect another day. Two weeks later we were checking out of Panama at a village Porvenir and sailing toward the W. Lemmons. Out of no where we someone yelling “Rosa, Rosa”. It was Ruben who said “I have some fish” as he was motoring that direction as well. Most Kuna are very honorable and kind.
The day before we left for Sapzurro, Colombia, our external hard drive won’t work after another cruisers computer thought it had a virus. So we spent an entire day trying to back up existing computer to make sure we wouldn’t loose anything else. But the USB sticks weren’t large enough so… Another solo sailor, Kevin on Amirimina who used to be a computer geek said he could look at it. He determined that the other boats inverter somehow blew up the devices USB interface board so took it apart and plugged in his USB interface parts and it worked. Moral of story — Don’t bring your back up hard drive off your boat for ANYTHING!!!
We are traveling east to Sapzurro, Colombia to renew our 3 month visa with another OH couple on Audrey Paige. Only 2 months later the law may be changed so could renew visa for another 3 months without leaving the country. Oh well… The entire way the mainland had minimal civilization – amazing. Its SOOO quiet at anchor, we are the only boat. You can smell the earth. The rivers and mangroves make the water not very clear. The islands are starting to be the same size but have volcanic black hills on them along with coconut trees. Therefore anchorages by islands are not like the Western San Blas with lots of sand to anchor in so you have to hunt around to find sand around the volcanic mounds.
We had several great days of sailing with no seas, light winds, clear skies. Tom said that if all sailing would be like this everyone would be out here! But we are anchoring in spots that cruising guide doesn’t suggest to stay further away from mainland bugs and kuna requesting $5/10 anchor fees and sometimes a $3/person charge to visit the village. Its a made up way to obtain some money. I don’t blame them for trying to make an income as there are no more fish to catch and sell. Monitoring tropical waves as we won’t get hurricanes but left over strong squalls.
On day we motor sailed the first 2 hours through a trough of rain, some lightening but fortunately minimal wind. We saw a water spout 1-2 miles away which scared us abit as it was picking up lots of water as it penetrated the sea. We both said prayers to the weather gods. That evening the sea opened up with windows of light from bioluminus (sorry spelling). So cool! Our dinghy is on deck and has a slow air leak so don’t want to put in water just for a day but would like to go visit village.
Sapzurro is a bay that is wide open and see that it could be VERY rolly in the winter season with NE winds but was calm during wet season. We took a ponga ($6/person round trip) to Capurgana – another small clean resort village with NO road access so they use horses pulling carts for commerce. Pretty cool place. Power was out so DAS/immigration was only open from 12-1pm. At least there was no charge to check in/out. Was going to go hike the falls to Cielo park but delays changed that and next day was rainy. The Colombian locals are picking up on the Kuna with charging $25Mil pesos (around $13) anchor fee per week. Who really owns the water?
We had an interesting experience while anchored in E. Lemmons. A huge dark front was approaching us so we were getting the boat ready (securing tarp over the front of the boat hatch so we can keep it open, closing the rest of the hatches, removing drying clothes, putting snorkel gear away so it doesn’t fly away, etc.) All of a sudden, Kuna family that was camping and maintaining the coconut palm trees on the surrounding islands started yelling. Then he started to blow a conch shell to alert any other Kuna’s camping in the area. In the distance was their fishing camp built over a small coral “island”. The cooking thatch/bamboo hut was burning and an ulu (wooden dugout canoe) was seen paddling away from the scene. The camping and fishing quarters include a cooking and living hut. He blew the shell with various short/long bursts and soon a faint response came back. It was very eerie yet mystical. We are not sure what the purpose was but by then the storm front had arrived, the rain gods helped by raining so hard you couldn’t see much in front of our boat. Alas, the structure of the cooking facility looks to have burned to the ground, it appears the living hut next to it was undamaged.
We actually created a conch shell instrument while in the Bahamas as most cruisers use it to solute the sunset. While cruising we have heard the conch blown to alert when there are fish for purchase, here in the San Blas islands – bread has been baked, trading boat arrived, etc. So while we can use cell phones in the islands – this family who is without one used a conch shell.
The Kuna are not bashful in asking for what they need including using your cell phone to make calls or to charge their cell battery. Most don’t say thank you unless they have lived in Panama City and acquired some social skills along with Spanish. We have met many elderly men that worked to build the canal or military in Panama City so know some English as well.
We have had storms and rain but nothing severe with lots of lightening. There are only about 60 boats (down from around 200) and most of them are at the W. Lemmons. We assisted another sailboat Kevin from Mirimina (old steel junk rig sails) who was adding diesel after being chased by Kuna out of Dog Island during the evening and ran HARD aground. Blue Sky initially tried helping early AM with no success and then 2 dutch boats (Vitte Roff, Talagowa) in tandem pulled him off on a rising tide after we emptied his boat to lighten it and keep the Kuna from taking it during his absence.
After Kevin was off reef he realized his computer died so asked if we would sell our dead screen computer to him. We probably won’t see the $50 but oh well it was going anyway and 4 yrs old. So Kevin helped us move all the files and programs over to our spare computer. That took a day plus feeding Kevin as besides not having money he doesn’t have much food either. He is a nice guy but lives differently than we could. There always appears to be something unique about single handed cruisers!
Nursing Tom back to health – what a roller coaster ride this has been. I believe he had a bacterial intestinal thing as it came about 24 hours after eating shellfish. The next night temperature at 104’F so cooled him down with gel packs and ice cubes (try doing that in the tropics!), more water/electrolytes and Cipro antibiotic. As during day he had major diarrhea, stomach cramps, sweats, chills then dry when temp spiked. The Merck medical book was all I had to try to figure out what to do as most cruisers had their radio off and no one in our anchorage was medically trained. Next day located nurse friend that gave me recipe for electrolyte mix (choose mild dehydration mix) so he’s drinking that as well. Determined next day that if not getting better that we would go by Kuna ponga to nearest clinic with Dr. from Panama City hospitals. Feeding him rice and other bland things. But he came around as temp went from normal to 102′ a few times then next day normal. I forgot about this during this episode but there is a 14300 USB SSB maritime mobile station that apparently has a doctor available 24 hours. SO will remember that next time. Awww yes life at sea.
My cruiser friend Pam on Glyde gave me a wild orchid she put in a coconut husk so it would keep living on our sailboats. I woke to a gift of two white orchid blooms! I found her prescription glasses by scuba diving as they fell off her face and landed in deep, murky water right before sunset. What you give always comes back 2 fold!
Dreams are for living!
Rose & Tom