Dominica –  Favorite Eastern Caribbean Island

 

We had passed Dominica both directions as we didn’t have enough time to justify even checking in.  BUT this time we finally stopped and REALLY enjoyed the people, history, great parks, rain forest, hiking, water falls, snorkeling, diving, great veggie/fruit/fish markets and hanging.  The anchorages are few, exposed to any north swell and often very deep or require mooring fees ($10US/nite) which is a reason some cruisers pass by.

 

It has a lot of agricultural area and undisturbed rain forest and waterfalls.  It is starting to promote tourism but so far Tues is the only cruise ship day.  So the people are still very friendly and actually stop to ask you how they can help you out and pick up hitch hikers.  It has 90 species of orchids, 180 ferns (several 25 years old), 365 rivers, 360” of rainfall in the highest points of rain forest, 4 hummingbird species, only remaining Caribe village left in the eastern Caribbean, 7 active volcanoes (but none have erupted?), etc. etc.  Need I go on….

 

We were very busy the whole time and would have just liked to hang and get to know the locals.  We (Daniel Storey, Catilus, Magic) took a tour from Martin on Providence (quiet family man) in Portsmouth of the north and east section (abit expensive $35US/person) which was excellent.  I know more about what’s to see now so would take a bus and stop as needed.  The drive to Pennville was excellent such that I ran out of time to take hiking trail in this area to Capucin by bus.  The other highlights were the red rock dunes near Crompton Point and Caribe Indian village.  We didn’t have enough time which bothered me that Martin didn’t plan better. I would of loved to hang with the local Caribe Indians and learn more about basket weaving and how they bury the reeds in dirt with running water to make them turn black AND learn more about the gommier tree that is carved out to make traditional canoes.  Also in Portsmouth they have the Indian river trips with lots of birds and wildlife to see AND the Cabrits National Park with beautiful hiking vistas and old fort history. 

 

Then we moved to Roseau where if we new abit more would of anchored with 1 anchor in shallow 20’ and other in 50’ to keep us safe BUT instead we took a mooring @ $10US/nite (we did strike a deal for 5 nights however).   I delivered Elizabeth Simon’s gift package to her sister Margaret Walsh at Ft. Young Hotel where she worked.  I didn’t have much time to chat as the rest were waiting for me.  We (Magic and Daniel Storey) decided to try to get to Victoria Falls by bus.  Well as all cruisers plans are in “sand” and need to be flexible we decided that wasn’t possibly this late in the AM so we went to Middleham Falls instead.  To our benefit we found a taxi looking for work so saved us some time finding/waiting for the bus, getting park pass, etc. AND there was road work so we got a great drive by of Trafalgar Falls and Sulphur Springs area.  The hike was wonderful with lots of birds singing, park trails in good shape and VERY cold pool to swim in after working up a sweat.  We were only people at most of the falls we visited as it is low season.  We were told that there should be a bus going back to Roseau after dropping off school kids.  We waited and David on S/V Magic worked his “magic” with his British friendly nature and got us lifts back to Trafalgar village where there were more buses. We hitched a ride by a So. African couple on an island tour and family touring after daughters wedding (who is in Med school here).   Even then we only saw 1 bus of which we filled and unfortunately the passengers down way were out of luck.  We were entertained by a VERY smart young boy that was giving us info to live by.  We decided to go to dinner after returning to town and then Friday night market.  We found a very nice reasonable local Creole restaurant and placed orders.  Dave on Daniel Storey decided he needed an ATM so off he went.  None of us looked to see which way he went.  After waiting about 30 minutes we decided we needed to send the search parties out but ALL came back unsuccessful.  We were getting VERY concerned so off we went searching some more and this time found him.  Apparently the ATM machine charged him but took the cash back so he had to go report it to main bank which took his debit card and didn’t return for 45 minutes.  So lesson is that you should at least ask where ATM machine is and let someone know where you are going!

 

We (Tuscan Tak, Daniel Storey, Magic, Zen?)  also took an official tour of Victoria Falls, Moses Restaurant and south/east coast villages with Rasta man Octavius on “Seacat” for $25/person.  It was a energetic tour as Octavius would go from village to village yelling/chatting with all the locals/Rasta bro’s in patoa/creole (mixture of French/English).   I was getting abit frustrated with how much time he was spending chatting and then hanging at a “moonshine” bar as we almost got to the emerald pool near sunset so rushed through that.  The hike to the falls needed to be done with a guide or lots of time to back track as you waded across river 5 times and climbed many boulders.  You could tell he had done this trip MANY times as he would quickly stop to pick herbs to share and rush off before we would even be able to smell them or know what he was picking.  This falls was different in that it was feed by a sulphur spring so was cloudy, warmer and wider therefore more volume and stronger current.  He took the adventure seekers (me/dave’s on Daniel Storey/Magic behind the falls which was difficult to get to as you swam close to the edge and had to hold on once you got there as it would push you into the falls and downstream.  After returning we did hang at the unofficial local bar (in some hut) near anchorage and drank beer.  Lots of ganja to smoke or buy if you chose but not pushy or narced out.  I celebrated by 53 yr old B-Day with this same group by eating at the Taiwanese restaurant.  It was wonderful not to eat my own cooking and eat Asian food. 

 

The next day we organized a dive with Anchorage Divers @ $80/person (down from $100+) to take us to the Soufriere Marine Reserve – Scotts Head area – Sherman dive master.  We had 2 great dives with wonderful healthy reefs and fish.  We didn’t see any sea horses but lots of other stuff.  We wanted to snorkel this area as well via bus from anchorage but just not enough time as wind was picking up again.  We could easily spend a month here!!!

 

We had 2 windy passages to Martinique and St. Lucia where we currently are.  We noticed that Sojourn’s toe rail to deck joint has sprung a leak with all the waves coming over deck and rail in water (with 2 reefs in jib/main).  So yesterday after 2 nights of rain washing her down decided that we needed to fix this.  So dermal tool and picks we roughed up and took out old calk and added new on front half of both sides of toe rail.   Plus finding location to fill propane tanks, get water, Saturday veggie/fruit market, etc. That’s what cruisers do when they are not exploring.  I guess land lubbers would call it house maintenance.

 

We are sad to say that we just learned that a new cruising friend we met “Jan” lost her life while taking a late night swim in Martinique.  We feel for the Bruce on R Phurst and her family and pray for healing.  Life again knocks telling us to “live our dreams”…

 

Keep in touch as we love to hear from you and are not always good at individually emailing you all.

 

Rose & Tom